What Fruits Grow in South Florida

Here is a list of what fruits can grow in South Florida.

Source: University of Florida

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/fruits/

What Vegetables Grow in South Florida ( Zone 10 )

Interesting to know that South Florida Vegetables like to get started in Early October as the sun calms down. Notice the planting dates for North, Central and South Florida are all listed.

I acquired a list from the University of Florida, here are the crops that do best in Zone 10. I recommend printing this page.

Planting guide for Florida vegetables.

Crop

Planting Dates in Florida (outdoors) 1

Yield per 10 ft (pounds)

Plants per 10 ft 2

Days to Harvest 3

Spacing (inches)

Seed depth (inches)

Transplant Ability 5

Plant Family 6

North

Central

South

Plants

Rows 4

Arugula

Sept–Mar

Sept–Mar

Oct–Mar

2.5

30–40

35–60

3–4

10

¼

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Beans, bush

Mar–Apr Aug–Sept

Feb–Apr Aug–Sept

Sept–Apr

4.5

30–60

45–60

2–4

18

1–1½

III

(Bean) Fabaceae

Beans, pole

Mar–Apr Aug–Sept

Feb–Apr Aug–Sept

Sept–Apr

8

24–40

50–70

3–5

36

1–1½

III

(Bean) Fabaceae

Beans, lima

Mar–Apr Aug

Feb–Mar Aug–Sept

Sept–Apr

5

20–40

60–80

3–6

18

1–1½

III

(Bean) Fabaceae

Beets

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Oct–Jan

7.5

30–60

50–70

2–4

12

½ –1

I

(Beet) Chenopodiaceae

Broccoli

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Oct–Jan

5

8–12

75–90 (50–70)

10–15

24

¼– ½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Brussels Sprouts

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Oct–Jan

10

5–7

90–120 (70–90)

18–24

24

¼–½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Cabbage

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Sept–Jan

12

8–13

85–110 (70–90)

9–16

24

¼– ½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Cantaloupes

Feb–Apr

Jan–Mar

Dec–Mar

15

4–6

85–110 (70–90)

20–36

60

½–1

III

(Squash) Cucurbitaccae

Carrots

Aug–Mar

Aug–Mar

Sept–Mar

10

40–120

70–120

1–3

10

¼

II

(Carrot) Apiaceae

Cauliflower

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Sept–Jan

8

7–10

75–90 (50–70)

12–18

24

¼– ½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Celery

Aug–Feb

Sept–Mar

Oct–Mar

15

10–20

75–90

6–12

18

On surface

II

(Carrot) Apiaceae

Chinese cabbage

Aug–Feb

Sept–Apr

Sept–Apr

10

7–9

70–90 (60–70)

14–18

14

¼ – ½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Collards

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Sept–Jan

15

5–10

70–90 (50–70)

12–24

24

¼– ½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Corn, sweet

Feb–Apr

Jan–Apr

Oct–Mar

12

15–20

65–90

6–8

28

1–1½

III

(Grass) Poaceae

Cucumbers

Feb–Apr July–Aug

Jan–Mar Sept

Sep–Feb

10

10–20

40–65

6–12

48

½–¾

III

(Squash) Cucurbitaceae

Eggplant

Feb–Mar Aug

Jan–Feb Aug–Sept

Aug–Feb

20

3–7

90–115 (70–90)

18–40

36

½–¾

I

(Tomato) Solanaceae

Endive/ Escarole

Jan–Feb Aug–Oct

Aug–Feb

Sept–Mar

7.5

8–9

60–80

14–16

18

¼

I

(Aster) Asteraceae

Kale

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Sept–Jan

7.5

9–10

50–70

8–12

18–

¼– ½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Kohlrabi

Sept–Mar

Oct–Mar

Oct–Feb

10

24–40

70–80 (50–55)

3–5

24

½

I

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Lettuce

Jan–Feb Sept–Oct

Sept–Feb

Sept–Feb

7.5

10–15

60–80

8–12

18

¼

I

(Aster) Asteraceae

Mustard

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Sept–Jan

10

12–24

40–50

5–10

12

¼– ½

II

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Okra

Mar–June

Feb–Aug

Jan–Mar Aug–Oct

7

12–30

60–70

4–10

36

½–1

III

(Hibiscus) Malvaceae

Onions, Bulbing

Mid–Sept – Mid–Nov

Oct

Oct

10

30

100–130

4–6

14

¼–½

III

(Lily) Liliaceae

Onions, Bunching (Green and Shallots)

Aug–Mar

Aug–Mar

Sept–Mar

10

30

50–75 (green) 75–100 (shallots)

2 (green) 6–8 (shallots)

14

¼–½

III

(Lily) Liliaceae

Peas, Snow or English

Jan–Mar

Nov–Feb

Nov–Feb

4

20–60

60–80

2–6

12

1–1½

III

(Bean) Fabaceae

Peas, southern

Mar–July

Feb–Aug

Sept–Apr

8

20–60

75–90

2–6

12

1–1½

III

(Bean) Fabaceae

Peppers

Feb–Mar July– Aug

Jan–Mar Aug–Sept

Aug–Feb

5

8–13

90–100 (65–75)

9–15

15

¼–½

I

(Tomato) Solanaceae

Potatoes, Irish

Jan–Feb

Nov–Feb

Oct–Jan

15

12–24

85–110

5–10

36–42

3–4 (seed pieces)

II

(Tomato) Solanaceae

Potatoes, sweet

Mar–Jun

Feb–Jun

Dec–Sept

30

10–12

85–130

10–12

36

I

(Morning Glory) Convolvulaceae

Pumpkin

Early July

Mid July

Early Aug

30

2–4

80–100 (70–90)

36–60

60

1½ –2

III

(Squash) Cucurbitaceae

Radish

Sept– Mar

Sept–Mar

Oct–Mar

4

120

20–30

1

6

¼

III

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Spinach

Sept–Mar

Sept–Mar

Oct–Feb

4

20–60

45–60

2–6

12

½

II

(Beet) Chenopodiaceae

Squash, Summer

Feb–Apr Aug–Sept

Jan–Apr Aug–Sept

Aug–Mar

15

5–10

40–50

12–24

36

1–1½

III

(Squash) Cucurbitaceae

Squash, Winter

Feb–Apr Aug–Sept

Jan–Apr Aug–Sept

Aug–Mar

30

2–4

85–120

36–60

60

1½ –2

III

(Squash) Cucurbitaceae

Strawberry

Sept 15– Oct 15

Sept 25– Oct 25

Oct 1– Dec 1

9–12

8–10

(30–60)

12–16

12

– – –

I

(Rose) Rosaceae

Swiss Chard

Sept–May

Sept–May

Sept–Mar

8–12

10–20

45–60

6–12

18

¼–½

I

(Beet) Chenopodiaceae

Tomatoes (supported)

Feb–Apr July–Aug

Jan–Feb Aug–Sept

Aug–Feb

2

4–7

90–110 (70–90)

18–32

48

¼– ½

I

(Tomato) Solanaceae

Turnips

Aug–Feb

Sept–Feb

Sept–Jan

15

20–60

40–60

2–6

12

¼– ½

III

(Cabbage) Brassicaceae

Watermelon

Feb–Apr

Jan–Mar

Dec–Mar

40

3–5

80–100 (60–90)

24–48

60

1½ –2

III

(Squash) Cucurbitaceae

North = all of Florida north of State Road 40; central = the section of Florida between State Roads 40 and 70; south = all of Florida below State Road 70.

2 Use transplants (if appropriate) or buy the amount of seed needed to grow this many plants per 10 feet of row. Most seed packets state the number of seeds the packet contains.

3 Days from seeding to harvest: values in parentheses are days from transplants to first harvest.

4 Minimum distance between rows (when planting in rows). Row spacing can be reduced or ignored as long as plants are spaced correctly.

5 Transplant ability (the ability of a seedling to be successfully transplanted): I = easily survives transplanting; II = survives transplanting with care; III = only plant seeds or containerized transplants with developed root systems.

6 Rotate plant families = avoid successively planting vegetables from the same family in the same area of the garden.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vh021

Table 2.Suggested varieties for Florida gardens.

CROP

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES1

NOTES/REMARKS

Arugula Speedy, Astro Plant at 2–3 week intervals from fall through spring for a continual harvest. The dark green, spicy leaves can be steamed, pureed, or used raw in salads and sandwiches. Harvest individual leaves as needed or the entire plant when it is 8–10 inches tall. High temperatures cause arugula to flower and become bitter.
Beans, Bush Snap: Bush Blue Lake, Contender, Roma II, Provider, Cherokee Wax

Shell: horticultural, pinto, red kidney, black bean, navy, garbanzo

Bush beans mature early and do not need staking. Fertilize at 1/2 the rate used for other vegetables; too much nitrogen limits production. Flowers self-pollinate. Plant rust-resistant varieties.
Beans, pole McCaslan, Kentucky Wonder, Blue Lake Fertilize at 1/2 the rate used for other vegetables; too much nitrogen limits production. Support vines. May be grown with corn for vine support. Plant rust-resistant varieties.
Beans, lima Fordhook 242, Henderson, Jackson Wonder, Dixie (Speckled) Butterpea, Early Thorogreen Pole and bush-types exist; provide trellis support for pole-type varieties. Control stinkbugs that injure pods. Fertilize at 1/2 the rate used for other vegetables; too much nitrogen limits production. Slightly more heat tolerant than bush or pole beans. Plant rust-resistant varieties.
Beets Tall Top, Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra, Red Ace, Yellow Detroit Beets require ample moisture at seeding or poor germination will result. Leaves are edible. Thin early to so beet roots have room to enlarge. Very cold tolerant. High in vitamins and iron.
Broccoli Early Green, Early Dividend, Green Sprouting/Calabrese, Waltham, Packman, De Cicco, Broccoli Raab (Rapini) Harvest heads before flowers open. Many small side shoots develop after main head is cut. Very cold hardy and nutritious. Broccoli Raab is not related to broccoli.
Brussels Sprouts Jade Cross, Long Island Improved Cool weather (58–60°F) is required or sprouts will open and not be solid. Sprouts are picked when they are walnut-sized and firm. The first sprouts near the bottom of the plant will be ready first. Pull off the leaves below the mature sprouts, then remove the sprouts by twisting them from the stem. Pick the sprouts at about 2-week intervals and keep refrigerated.
Cabbage Rio Verde, Flat Dutch, Round Dutch, Wakefield types, Copenhagen Market, Savoy, Red Acre High in vitamins, especially vitamin C. Long fall/winter planting season. Buy clean plants to avoid cabbage black-rot disease. Needs ample moisture and fertilizer. Frost tolerant. Watch for caterpillars.
Cantaloupes and Honeydews Athena, Ambrosia, Galia (green flesh) Bees needed for pollination. Disease prone. Mulch to reduce fruit-rot and salmonella. Overwatering or heavy rainfall reduces sugar content of maturing fruit. Harvest when the fruit cleanly separates from the vine with light pressure.
Carrots Imperator, Nantes, Danvers, Chantenay Grow carrots on a raised bed for best results. Sow seeds shallowly. They are slow to germinate. Keep soil consistently moist throughout the germination and growing periods. Thin seedlings to recommended spacing when they are an inch tall. Excellent source of vitamin A
Cauliflower Snowball Strains, Snow Crown, Brocoverde Can be difficult to grow. Plants are cold hardy; heads are not. Tie leaves around the head (called blanching) when it is 2–3 inches to prevent discoloration or plant self-blanching varieties.
Celery Utah strains Can be a difficult crop in the home garden. Requires very high soil moisture during seeding/seedling stage. Needs 3 months or longer to mature. Look for early-maturing varieties.
Chinese Cabbage Michihili, bok choy, Napa, baby bok choy, pak-choi, joi choi Easy to grow. Two types exist: Heading (Pekinensis) or Open-leaf (Chinensis). Bok Choy is open-leaf type, while Michihili and Napa form tighter heads.
Collards Georgia, Georgia Southern, Top Bunch, Vates Cold and heat tolerant. Cool-season greens are more flavorful. Greens are ready for use 2 months after planting. Harvest lower leaves; never remove more than 1/3 of the plant at one time. Respond, well to nitrogen fertilizer.
Corn, sweet Silver Queen (white), How Sweet It Is (white), Sweet Ice (white), Sweet Riser (yellow), Early Sunglow (yellow) Requires space; plant in blocks of at least 3 rows for good pollination. Isolate different varieties by cross-pollination. Plant where it will not shade other vegetables. Sucker removal not beneficial. Harvesting in early morning maintains sugar content. Scout for corn earworm.
Cucumbers Slicers: Sweet Success, Poinsett, Ashley, MarketMore 76, Straight Eight, Space Master

Picklers: Eureka, Boston Pickling

Two types: slicers and picklers. Pickling types can also be used fresh. Burpless varieties exist. Many hybrids are gynoecious (female flowering; only female flowers set fruit). Bees are required for pollination.
Eggplant Black Beauty, Dusky, Long, Ichiban, Cloud Nine (white) Requires warm soil and weather. Harvest into summer. May need staking. Bitter fruit caused by high temperatures or drought conditions.
Endive/Escarole Endive: Green Curled Ruffec

Escarole: Batavian Broadleaf

Excellent ingredient in tossed salads or can be cooked as greens. Bitterness can be reduced by blanching 2–3 weeks before harvest. Escarole (Batavian endive) is a broad-leaved selection.
Kale Vates Dwarf Blue Curled, Tuscan (lacinato), Winterbor, Redbor Good source of greens late fall through early spring in north and central Florida. Harvest outer leaves, but no more than 1/3 of the plant at one time. Ornamental types are edible, but not very tasty.
Kohlrabi Early White Vienna, Purple Vienna Easy to grow. Red and green varieties exist. Use fresh or cooked. Leaves are edible. Harvest stems when 1 ½ to 3 inches in diameter.
Lettuce Crisphead: Great Lakes

Butterhead: Ermosa, Bibb, Tom Thumb, Buttercrunch

Loose Leaf: Simpson types, Salad Bowl, Red Sails, New Red FireOak Leaf, Salad Bowl, Royal Oak

Romaine: Parris Island Cos, Outredgeous

Leaf types grows well in Florida; grow crisphead type only in coolest months. Damaged by freezing temperatures. Warm temperatures cause bitterness. Sow seeds very shallow as they need light to germinate. Intercrop lettuce with long-season and/or taller vegetables.
Mustard Southern Giant Curled, Florida Broad Leaf, Tendergreen, Giant Red, Green Wave, Mizuna Good cooking green fall through spring; harvest outer leaves. Broadleaf types require more space. Damaged by freezing temperatures. Warm temperatures create bitter flavor.
Okra Clemson Spineless, Emerald, Annie Oakley II, Cajun Delight Soak seeds in water for 6 hours for better germination. Requires warm soils and temperatures. Very heat tolerant. Highly susceptible to root-knot nematodes. Harvest pods a few days after flower petals have fallen or pods become tough and stringy.
Onions Bulbing: Granex (yellow)

Green: Evergreen Bunching, White Lisbon Bunching

Multipliers: Shallots

Leeks: American Flag

Depending on type, onions may be grown from seed, sets, transplants, or division. Bulbing onions must be planted in fall and be short-day varieties. Green/bunching onions may be grown fall through spring. Plant close and harvest (thin) as needed. Insert sets upright for straight stems. Divide and reset multiplier types every year.
Peas, English or Snow Wando, Green Arrow, Sugar Snap, Oregon Sugarpod II Fertilize at 1/2 rate used for other vegetables; too much nitrogen limits production (as does warm temperatures). May need support depending on type. Consume soon after harvest for best quality.
Peas, Southern (aka Field Peas, Cow Peas, Crowder Peas, Cream Peas) California Blackeye No.5, Pinkeye Purple Hull, Texas Cream Highly nutritious. Fertilize at 1/2 rate used for other vegetables; too much nitrogen limits production. Good summer cover crop. Cowpea curculio is a common pest. Maintain consistent soil moisture.
Peppers Sweet: California Wonder, Red Knight, Big Bertha, Sweet Banana, Giant Marconi, Cubanelle

Hot: Early Jalapeno, Jalapeno M; Cherry Bomb, Hungarian Hot Wax, Big Chile II, Mariachi, Numex, Ancho, Thai, Anaheim Chile, Long Cayenne, Habanero, Caribbean Red Habanero

Transplants often more successful than seeds. Mulching especially beneficial. Will often produce into summer. Pepper “heat” depends on variety and is measured in Scoville units.
Potato, Irish Red Pontiac, Yukon Gold, Gold Rush Plant 2-ounce certified seed pieces with at least one eye. Each will produce 6–8 potatoes. Do not start with “store bought.” Require cool temperatures, moisture, and large amounts of fertilizer.
Potatoes, Sweet Centennial, Beauregard, Vardaman, Boniato Start with certified-free transplants (slips). Use vine tip cuttings for a second crop and prolonged harvest season. Types: moist-flesh (yams) and dry-flesh (e.g., boniata). Bush types conserve garden space. Sweet potato weevils are a serious problem; rotate the planting site.
Pumpkin Big Max, Connecticut Field, Prizewinner, Jack Be Little, Jack O Lantern, calabaza Requires a lot of space but can be grown under taller vegetables. Bees required for pollination. Foliage diseases and fruit-rot are common.
Radish Cherry Belle, White Icicle, Sparkler, Champion, Daikon Easy and fast-growing; thin early and inter-crop with slow-growing vegetables to save space. Plant every two weeks during the growing season for a continuous supply. Spicy, bitter flavor caused by hot weather and over-maturity. Winter/Oriental radishes (such as Daikon) also grow well in Florida.
Spinach Melody 3, Bloomsdale Longstanding, Tyee, Space Grows best only during the coolest months. Quick maturing. Harvest entire plant or by removing outer leaves. New Zealand spinach and Malabar spinach, although not true spinach, grow well during warm months in Florida. Plant New Zealand spinach or Swiss Chard for summer greens.
Squash Summer: Early Prolific Straightneck, Summer Crookneck, Early White Scallop, chayote

Zucchini: Cocozelle, Spineless Beauty, Black Beauty, Chayote, Calabaza

Winter: spaghetti, Table King, Table Queen & Table Ace (Acorn), Waltham, Early Butternut (butternut)

Summer squash and zucchini are usually bush types; winter squash have a spreading, vining habit. Calabaza is similar, but is a heat-and disease-resistant hard-shelled squash, similar to a butternut or acorn in taste. Chayote is a vine that needs support. All cucurbits have male and and female flowers separated on the plant and pollination by insects is required for fruit set. Crossing between types occurs, but is only evident when seeds are saved. Leaf and fruit diseases are fairly common. Winter types store well.
Strawberry Chandler, Oso Grande, Sweet Charlie, Selva, Camarosa, Festival Grown as an annual crop in Florida starting with disease-free plants in the fall. Plant only varieties adapted to Florida.
Swiss Chard Bright Lights, Bright Yellow, Fordhook Giant, Lucullus, Red Ruby Seeds can be sown in the fall as well as in late winter/early spring. An excellent alternative green for warm weather. Harvest outer leaves when 8-10 inches long. Very susceptible to root-knot nematodes.
Tomatoes Large Fruit: Celebrity, Heat Wave II, Better Boy, Beefmaster, BHN444-Southern Star*, Amelia*, BHN 640*, Tasti-Lee™

Small Fruit: Sweet 100, Juliet, Red Grape, Sun Gold, Sugar Snack, Sweet Baby Girl

Heirloom: Green Zebra, Cherokee Purple, Eva Purple Ball, Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter, Delicious

Staking/supporting and mulching are beneficial. Flowers self-pollinate. Blossom drop is usually due to too high or too low temperatures and/or excessive nitrogen fertilization. Serious problems include blossom-end rot, wilts, whitefly, and leafminers. Cherry types are heat resistant

*Resistant to TSWV (Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus)

Turnips Roots: Purple Top White Globe

Greens: Seven Top, Shogoin

Quick-growing, cool weather crop. Grow for roots and tops (greens). Broadcast seed in a wide-row or single file. Thin early to allow for root expansion. Smaller roots (2”) are milder in flavor.
Watermelon Large: Jubilee (aka FL Giant), Crimson Sweet, Charleston Grey 133

Small: Sugar Baby, Mickeylee

Vines require lots of space. Smaller “ice-box” types exist. Plant disease resistant varieties. Bees required for pollination. “Seedless” types must be interplanted with regular types to dependably bear fruit. Harvest when melon underside begins to turn yellow or when fruit tendril shrivels.
Other varieties may produce well also. Suggestions are based on availability, performance, and pest resistance.

Information on New Zealand and Malabar spinach, Calabaza, Chayote, and many other minor vegetables can be found at: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_minor_vegetables

Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vh021

 

How to Start a Garden

The abundance of garden seeds we supply come from a site with a similar name Johnnyseeds.com. I became a fan of them when working on a organic market garden in Western Slope, Colorado. Circle A Garden. Betsy taught me how to harvest almost every vegetable known to man. She has a bunch of recipes at http://circleagarden.com/recipe.

Aquire Seeds from your Zone

  • Inspect this Map, click to enlarge, and find your zone. This is how you will know what seeds to buy.
  •  Garden Hardiness Zone Map
  • Find seeds, I like https://johnnyseeds.com
  • Prepare yourself by reading each seeds instructions

Start the Seeds

Seeds do best in different ways. You can germinate them in paper towels, then transfer them to their starting tray. Keep them well watered (and drained).

Plant them in the bed

Plant the seeds per seed packet instructions and transplant it out of the starting tray into the lightly packed soil.

I recommend starting with onions and greens. You can grow many in small areas and it requires low skill.